
When it comes to P.J. Clarke’s, I’m strictly meat and potatoes…well, lobster and oysters too—after all, when in the mood to splurge with such manly fare available, how to choose? Although the location at Lincoln Square has only been open for a couple of years, this New York saloon is steeped in history, as the original location swung open its doors well over a hundred years ago.
We ordered straight-up cocktails first. A Hennessey Sidecar ($16) and a Grey Goose Martini ($15) were just the ticket. We selected a tray of a dozen assorted oysters to whet our appetites and they were all very good, but the exquisite mollusks from Fisher’s Island ($3/per) were our favorites, with a little lemon. Mystic ($2.75/per) oysters were creamy and resonant and the Prince Edward Island Malpeques ($2.50/per) were just wonderful, tasting of fresh sea.
I asked for a side of hot dripping butter with the Maine Lobster Cocktail ($26), a whole pound laid out on ice. How fabulous! It was around this point we decided on wines while we enjoyed our chunky Iceberg Wedge ($8.45) with bacon and a pure, tangy blue cheese. A rich red Argentine Altos Las Horniga Malbec ($11) delighted my friend with an aroma of ripe berries and the sturdy Chilean Casa Julia Sauvignon Blanc ($10) mellowed nicely to flavors of melon.
After a pause, we dug into extraordinary Mac & Cheese ($14.60), which plunged us headlong into utter, gasping shock! I think the homey dish is best done simply with the best ingredients and here, orecchiette in a velvety béchamel sauce certainly fit the bill. From the list of weekly specials the Short Rib Sandwich ($21.30) with mashed potatoes did us nicely, and we also had to try the superb 12 oz. Prime Angus Filet Mignon ($40.10), medium rare, with béarnaise and au poivre sauces, thank you!
It is embarrassing to admit that we also indulged in dessert, but New York Cheesecake ($8.45) with blueberry compote beckoned, just as classic as this grand old saloon. N
—Peter Sherwood
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Flotilla DeBarge has lit up the big screen in To Wong Foo, Thanks for Everything! Julie Newmar and the Angels in America miniseries on HBO. She has also portrayed one of the many devilish denizens in Bertolt Brecht and Kurt Weill’s The Threepenny Opera on Broadway. And surely you remember the infamous PETA advertisement featuring Miss Thing dolled up as Star Jones? DeBarge is currently calling out a few numbers, hosting the fabulously fun Karaoke Sundays at Esquelita. So what floats Flo’s boat about food?
“When it comes to good home cooking, I love the Pink Tea Cup (42 Grove St, 212-807-6755). I usually get the fresh, moist Catfish ($14), which is available fried or broiled. I prefer broiled, as I am a health-conscious gal—I’m trying to go green! But sometimes I get the excellent Fried Chicken Wings ($10.25), too. There is a choice of sides but I get the okra, corn and tomato succotash or collard greens. Virgil’s delectable desserts are all good but I like Coconut Cake ($2.75) and Banana Pudding ($3.25).” N
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