Ofrenda

Locations

 
Whew! This address has certainly witnessed a lot of changes over the last few years, what with Stonewall Bistro, Gianna’s and Ostia twisting through the culinary revolving door. Now Ofrenda, meaning “oblation” (yup, a new word to me too—it’s a religious offering) has set up shop, helmed by the excellent Chef Luis Arce Mota, formerly of Café Condesa. His Mazatlan-influenced fare is not only refined but racy as well, and just downright tasty.
 
Gird your loins for some cocktails that practically challenge you to a duel, such as the Ofrenda Mangorita ($10) with Tanteo tropical tequila, fresh mango and agave nectar, and the Pepino Diablo ($10)—a clean and pleasant garden of cucumber purée with more agave nectar and Tanteo jalapeño tequila that brings an uprising of heat on the back of the tongue. There’s a reasonable, rangy wine list as well, but we held fast to our margs, thank you!
 
We had to order food eventually, so Boquerones with Warm Potatoes ($12) was first up—pure and meaty white anchovies dallied with frisée salad in a nutty, earthy dressing with black olive purée for a briny balance. No one could claim we were chicken when it came to trying the Chimichangas ($9) with a creamy mash of pigs’ feet and pork cracklings. We just had to dig in and it was all quite good—a celebration of shiitake mushrooms, guacamole and spicy ancho-chile sauce was accompanied by a tasty little plate of Frijoles Refritos ($4), refried black beans topped with queso fresco and slivers of fried tortillas.
 
Pollo en Mole ($14) hardly disappointed, with gorgeous puffy rice; requesting to substitute a side of Coliflor Capeada ($6) for the green beans was divine intervention. A decidedly OMG moment—fried, meringue-battered cauliflower draped in a chipotle-tomato sauce arrived on a pillow of buttery, cauliflower purée—there’s your religious offering! Costillas de Borrego Rostizadas ($20), roasted rack of lamb, was cooked perfectly, with garlic mashed potatoes and shiitake mushrooms as seductive as steak.
 
If you’re not already among the converted, get thee to Ofrenda and experience all that it has to offer!    N
Peter Sherwood is the Dining Editor for Next Magazine and the author of the blog Evenings With Peter. Visit EveningsWithPeter.com for more info.