Eat Like an Egyptian

New York City never ceases to amaze. How can a visitor possibly grasp it all in a brief stay when even locals continually stumble upon wonderful new discoveries? Unfortunately, the opposite is also all too true: We’ve all returned to a favorite haunt, only to find a “For Rent” sign because it’s been ousted to make room for another Starbucks or yogurt spot. Most disappear for good, but a few lucky ones are able to relocate.

One of those survivors is Egyptian eatery Casa La Femme. Over the years, it has hopped all over the place—from Soho to Midtown East and now the West Village—but I’d never heard of it before the boyfriend suggested it recently. It’s been around for over a decade, despite very little love from the press. That’s a shame, because Casa La Femme certainly deserve more attention; there’s nothing else in the city quite like it.

The moment you step inside you’re overwhelmed by the beautiful tiling on everything—floors, walls, ceilings—except the intricately carved bar near the door. Even the oft-overlooked bathrooms have tile, as well as an intricate mirror and comfy chairs perfect for sharing secrets with your beloved. The tables and chairs in the dining area are wooden—inlaid with tiles, of course—but it’s a special treat to dine in the bar area, which has a cozy fireplace surrounded by canopied banquets and oversized wing chairs. Completing the atmosphere are belly dancers who perform nightly.

If you’ve come for a full meal, go with the prix fixe menu, while ordering a la carte is best if you’re just in the bar area for drinks and a snack. We ordered a la carte. The trio of dips—babaganoush, hummus, and ful medames, a purée of fava beans—are so first-rate you won’t mind paying a little more for extra pita. Bearing no resemblance to the Hungarian stew of the same name, the delicious goulash here is actually housemade phyllo packets stuffed with leeks and mushrooms. The boyfriend loved his crab cakes, but I found them a bit fishy. He also really appreciated his lamb chops while I savored my grilled sea scallops. The oven-braised veggies in the tagine khodar were also enjoyable, but we had more than enough to eat without sides. We were advised that portions were even larger on the prix fixe menu, so beware!

This is probably not a venue to which you’ll return regularly, but it’s certainly one you must experience—preferably with some adventurous friends.

Casa La Femme, 140 Charles St, 212-505-0005, casalafemmeny.com.