Nerai

Nerai, 55 E 54th St (btwn Park/Madison Aves), 212-759-5554, NeraiNYC.com

SHORT ORDER: A delightful, unexpected Greek retreat in midtown amid executive suits.
PETER’S PICKS: spreads; Brussels sprouts; duck moussaka; black tiger shrimp; baklava
PETER’S PANS: The incapacity of our stomachs to devour everything.

Madison Avenue and 54th Street isn’t exactly a neighborhood you’d think of going to unless you worked nearby. But once the cab ride to Nerai is over, what a wonderful respite it proves to be! Soothing blues and soft whites summon the isles of Greece in an oasis full of marvelous fare. Even the handsome pin-stripped businessmen that stock the tables talking money seem relaxed. Wines were first up for my guests, although I retired to a reliable Belvedere martini, straight up with a lemon twist. A white Koutsouyanopoulos assyrtiko from Santorini was full-bodied, highly drinkable and sharply autumnal, similar to a seasonal sauvignon blanc. A heft of red Thimiopoulous Xinomavro was another export from Greece and tended toward juicy stone fruits, such as dark cherries. While we swirled our glasses, servings of spreads seemed entirely likely: we absolutely reveled in the Mason jars filled with hummus and tahini served with grilled onions. Creamy tzatziki was a dream, with full flavors of yogurt, cucumber and garlic. Tarama was duly suited with salty cod roe and a hint of lemon. The warm, sumptuous accompanying bread drizzled with olive oil was a fine conveyance.

We paused over the lightly grilled zucchini and eggplant crisps that served as an interim snack with more of the lovely tzatziki. A Carpaccio of pale hamachi and richly red tuna served with Ouzo-marinated cucumbers and petite clouds of whippy yogurt foam and a vibrant olive jus was just such a tasty treat! Grilled octopus arrived stacked like a game of Jenga with chickpeas, lemon oil and the judicious addition of red peppers. My companion even suggested that the dish tasted like good fried chicken! We were hardly prepared for the darkly mysterious duck moussaka, such a gorgeous rondelet with finely layered sheets of roasted potatoes and eggplant that danced in a béchamel sauce. Hearty chunks of delicious, tender and juicy Alaskan king crab served as the centerpiece in a salad furthered by iceberg lettuce wedges, celery and fennel, lightly attired in a classic latholemono dressing.

Langoustine from New Zealand was under consideration for our main but we instead chose head-on, massive, juicy black tiger shrimps that threatened to over take the table. Such buttery, fabulous fish laced with fennel! Crispy Brussels sprouts were a welcome accompaniment with subtly sweet sausage, pistachios, pine-flavored mastiha and caramelized almonds.

We ordered a few glasses of finishing licorice-inspired Ouzo as well as a sampling of Metaxa, a brandy with a ripe nose of prunes. A filo cake with orange syrup and dark chocolate sorbet seemed admirable, as did traditional shredded kataifi with anise-honey syrup and custard. Honeyed lavender mousse won out, however, with caramelized pecans that benefited from brightly tart pineapple Carpaccio. We were also wild about the flaky and warm hand-rolled baklava cigars with gorgeous pistachios and mastiha gelato.

Nerai was all Greek to us and we absolutely loved it.

Prices: Appetizers: $12–$27; Entrées: $26–$40; Alcohol: wine, beer, full bar, specialty cocktails