Parker & Quinn

Parker & Quinn, 64 W 39th St (btwn Fifth/Sixth Aves), 212-729-0277, ParkerAndQuinnNYC.com

SHORT ORDER: Fine food and drink admirably aspire to a classic New York night out.
PETER’S PICKS: tomato-bacon bisque; steak tartare; rib eye steak; Brussels sprouts
PETER’S PANS: The harpies behind us that shrieked like badly tuned violins strung from recently gutted cats.

Over the years, I’ve come to believe that the mark of a really good meal can be registered as much by the discussion it enables at the table as it can by the food itself. And just so, as we feasted at Parker & Quinn, our foodie appetites were fueled by the earnest, honest fare we found there—and the wonderful conversation it fostered. The whole setup was immediately, wonderfully arresting and transporting—we may just as well have sidled up to a slightly suggestive situation via madam Belle Watling in Gone With the Wind, outfitted with burnished gold sprays of filigree on the stark, slate-colored wallpaper illumined by amber hobnail lamps that evoked gaslights from a century ago. But Parker & Quinn is quite new, even as it winks at hallowed halls from New York’s history.

A reasonable dip into a glass of velvety Hirsch Kentucky bourbon whiskey seemed prudent, if only to stave off the chill from the elements outside. A blood orange margarita wasn’t a bad idea either, crafted with Avion silver tequila, ginger beer and lime—and several rounds confirmed their excellence!

Oysters encrusted with cornmeal were lightly fried and served with a perfect cocktail sauce that miraculously incorporated Hendrick’s gin. The tomato bisque with smoky bacon was utterly sublime, presented in a charming mini copper casserole that we coveted—and we discovered our soup benefitted from goat cheese and Parmesan for a full-bodied flavor. We tore through the tartare that was keenly paired with a fine lace of bright mustard, a sharp red-onion bite and salty chopped cornichons. The eggplant dip with a drizzle of sweet honey, grilled pita bread and za’atar spiced crisps was most distracting. We took a delicate pause into some sheep’s milk ricotta enlivened by a cautious usage of orange zest. A pale, crisp and tangy Caesar provided some roughage.

Eggy, slight ribbons of peppery tagliatelle pasta with slowly simmered lamb devoid of any gaminess was somewhat salty, but we conquered it nonetheless. While we considered our mains, we wondered if we should indulge in a rotisserie chicken or delight in a duck leg fashioned as a hearty French cassoulet? The hefty pork chop won out, laden with tender apples and perhaps a bit too sweet—but we matched this up with a bowl of savory cheddar-bacon grits and dug in just the same. The huge, 16 oz medium rare boneless rib eye was worthy of several commendations, resting in a lovely, shallow pool of rich juices. We found the buttery, roasted gems of Brussels sprouts that naturally would accommodate the meat to be entirely satisfactory.

As we shook our heads somewhat guiltily, gazing at the dessert menu, it was obvious the pumpkin mousse with gingered pecans and a dollop of whipped cream had to be next. A fluffy, light finish to our meal with unexpected reminiscences of so many holidays spent at home!

Prices: Appetizers: $5–$15; Entrées: $8–$37; Alcohol: wine, beer, full bar, specialty cocktails