Ripe for the Picking

Like many parts of Manhattan, the East Village has undergone a major transformation in the past couple of decades. It’s maybe changed slower and to a lesser degree than, say, Chelsea or Hell’s Kitchen, but longtime denizens of the neighborhood no doubt worry that it’s already been ruined. But even in its darkest days, it’s always been a great area for food and drink. Restaurants abound along Second Avenue, both mainstays and newer, more exotic eateries. Interestingly, one of the best dining experiences to be had is Prune, which has been partying like it’s 1999 since, well, 1999.

Only a last-minute cancellation secured me a table recently on a bitterly cold Tuesday evening, and that should tell you the whole story. A sophisticated crowd still gathers around the rather small bar and crams into the tiny tables—it is the East Village, after all. Painted wooden walls, ice cream parlor tables, ladder-back chairs, white hexagonal tile floors, and cozy nooks all add to the homey, old-timey atmosphere. The sparkly servers in long aprons seem to regard you with a certain admiration for having discerned that this is a place for serious eating.

A recent special starter was described simply as a fried egg on toast with chipotle butter, but when a James Beard Award winner—Gabrielle Hamilton, one of the first female head chefs in the city—offers something seemingly prosaic, go for it. It’s impossible to say what sorcery was applied to this dish, but it was delicious and bore no resemblance to anything you’d find in a diner. Sweetbreads have been having a mini-renaissance of late, but they can be a bit tricky to prepare properly; suffice it to say, the trick was mastered here. Beneath an uncharacteristically crispy exterior, the inside were firm but just on the edge of creamy—all tied up perfectly with browned butter, capers, and bacon.

The duck breast, crispy and medium rare, was very good but pretty standard fare, elevated by a bed of lentils, turnips and tomatoes. The oxtail reminded me of beef osso bucco, braised for hours with soft meat falling off the bone when encouraged by a fork. Gratings of fresh horseradish scattered over the meat were sensational, so be sure to ask for more on the side. The oxtail sits on sublimely flavorful soffritto, a buttery combo of finely diced tomatoes, onions, garlic, celery and carrots. Desserts, unfortunately, don’t live up to high bar set by the entrées, so save the calories and buy some fruit on the way home. Prunes, perhaps?

Prune, 54 E First St (First/Second Aves), 212-677-6221, prunerestaurant.com.