The Year of Living Deliciously

(clockwise from top left) Greenwich Project, The Russian Tea Room, Manon and Le Perigord
This year revealed many culinary classics, both new and old with some unexpected treasures—in other words, just what you’d expect from good ol’ New York.
We luxuriated for hours over the sprawling 15-course tasting menu at Eleven Madison Park (11 Madison Ave, 212-889-0905, ElevenMadisonPark.com). The entire experience was pure theater, involving a Maine “clambake” as well as glittering striped bass and pink roasted duck.
@Nine (592 Ninth Ave, 212-265-4499, AtNineNYC.com) was a step beyond many of the other Thai joints in gay HK. While sipping refreshing Fresh & Young cocktails, we delighted in gently fried Crab Rangoon and bright, tangy beef salad.
If only we could have stayed overnight at Juni (12 E 31st St, 212-995-8599, JuniNYC.com) to continue our feasting! A spectacular seasonal menu offered foie gras with pert apple relish and warm brioche, rich kale soup with simmered pork neck, creamy blankets of salsify agnolotti and sumptuous duck, all served in an intimate, social atmosphere.
Le Périgord (405 E 52nd St, 212-755-6244, LePerigord.com) was such an Old World experience, a sophisticated, secluded French restaurant on the Upper East Side worth the trip. Greeted by an arsenal of waiters, we were led into the dining room where we gladly supped on mushroom-stuffed fat quail with black truffle sauce and roasted lobster tails.
We dined on caviar with blini, borscht and stroganoff at The Russian Tea Room (150 W 57th St, 212-581-7100, RussianTeaRoomNYC.com), where the storied opulence has grandly returned with much of the restored, historical elements intact. Contemporary items such as sliders and brined pork chops now share the menu as gracious gentlemen handsomely attired in Russian military jackets wait on you hand and foot.
In a breezy environment evocative of the sun-tanned Hamptons, Greenwich Project (47 W Eighth St, 212-253-9333, GreenwichProjectNY.com) presented us with the keenly matched Odd Couple, a pairing of sautéed sweetbreads, salty cubes of bacon and sea-worthy snails laced with a garlic froth. The halibut with brioche crust was extraordinary! We finished with red velvet cake, of course.
Pennsylvania 6 (132 W 31st St, 212-727-3666, Pennsylvania6NYC.com) in the Penn Station ’hood was surprisingly wonderful. While combating the transient, boisterous commuters flooding the bar, we quite enjoyed embarking on oysters from the east and west coasts. Blue crab mac followed, lushly robed in a fontina cream sauce. The bone-in pork chop became even better under a spicy maple glaze, nestled next to mashed sweet potatoes.
Joe Allen (326 W 46th St, 212-581-6464, JoeAllenRestaurant.com) is the lullaby of Broadway on Restaurant Row. Although hardly our first visit, we still started with the aromatic, buttery steak tartare and Caesar salad before moving on to a juicy burger. The chocolate pudding cake and banana cream pie are keepers. Keep an eye out for the fabulous Joan Rivers, a frequent visitor!
Beautifully lurking in the Meatpacking District, Manon (407 W 14th St, 212-596-7255, Manon-NYC.com) has a revolving menu that ladles out vibrant pea soup, sweet corn tortellini, Amish chicken breasts and smoked butter-mashed potatoes.
The winner of the most gorgeous place we visitied this year is…Villard Michel Richard (455 Madison Ave, 212-891-8100, VillardMichelRichard.com) in the legendary New York Palace hotel. We were spirited by our Negroni cocktails, lobster bisque, côte de boeuf au poivre, fried chicken and a puff pastry Napoleon piped with ridiculously good cream.




